Brussels: beer n’ frites

Ken Greer and Boris Mirtchev, the brains behind the
successful Hamachi mini-empire, have turned to Mirtchev’s Belgian roots
for their latest venture. Brussels opened on Granville in September and
is comprised of two long narrow rooms, side-by-side. The dining room’s
beautiful wood panelling, high-backed banquettes and comfortable wooden
chairs provide a warm sense of grandeur.

The brasserie is casual, but like any Hamachi, no decor detail is
overlooked. There’s even a wry Manneken Pis statue, peeing in a
Brussels fountain.

On our first night out, we share the dining room with a boisterous
holiday party. Our server apologizes beforehand and explains the
kitchen will be slower than usual. I’m not complaining, given this many
Belgian beers on the menu: Stella, Hoegaarten and Leffe on tap, plus
many bottled Trappist ales.

As expected, the rich culinary heritage of Belgium features
prominently on the menu: waffles, chocolate, French fries, mussels,
endive and leeks. We opt for the mussels mariniere (celery, onion and
garlic) as a side ($5.95), frites with mayonnaise ($5.95) and the
charcuterie plate ($11.95) to start. The mussels are unremarkable, but
we like the house-pickled veg on the charcuterie plate. Thyme
mushrooms, vinegary asparagus and sweet red onions make a great foil
for the pate and cheese, though it’s a shame to serve them with
store-bought crackers when there’s beautiful house-made rosemary bread.
The humble frites are the starter star—crisp and cut thicker than
French matchsticks and accompanied by an adorable lemony
mayonnaise.

We wait a very long time between courses. I get that the kitchen is
busy with the bigger table, but our server does not tend to the larger
party. We don’t see her for long periods and she misses an opportunity
to sell more imported beverages.

When our mains arrive, we’re underwhelmed. The flétan
grillé ($26.95) appears as a tiny thin triangle of halibut,
grilled into oblivion without a trace of raspberry wheat beer sauce.
The agneau à la bière ($19.95) is equally unimpressive.
These medium-rare lamb chops (we weren’t given an option) are tough and
lack evidence of apricot beer sauce. A side order of leeks fails to
appear and a woefully small amount of undercooked side vegetables
emphasizes the joylessness.

Next week, we head back for lunch. It’s picking up as we’re seated
on the brasserie side. The service is faster and more attentive than on
our last visit. We order the stoemp saucisse ($14.95), the croque
monsieur ($9.95) and more addictive frites. The sausage comes with
shredded cabbage, like sauerkraut but not as briny. It lacks taste. Our
server tells me it’s not the usual sausage from Tatamagouche either,
which they apparently ran out of. The croque monsieur, though, provides
ample amounts of smoked ham, Gruyere cheese and Dijon; a delicious
classic.

I don’t quite know what to make of Brussels—I love the decor, the
varied menu and its attempt to offer something decidedly different
downtown, but the consistency that the Hamachi chain is noted for is
absent. Perhaps these problems will work themselves out. In the
meantime, I’ll content myself with frites and beer—not a bad
consolation prize in the New Year.

Tell us where you croque at liz@foodcritic.ca.

This article appears in Jan 8-14, 2009.