Indifferent Turks

The air is warm and smells rich and spicy in Cafe Istanbul, and the
small restaurant is cozy and comfortable. There is an instrumental
version of Lionel Ritchie’s “Hello” playing. Pan flute, I think. Not
exactly what I expect at a Turkish restaurant, but in a way it sets the
pace—I’m not going to get what I expect tonight.

It’s dinnertime, just after six, and the restaurant isn’t busy, but
the server seems impatient to take our order. After a few minutes we
order and ask for a wine recommendation to go with our meal. Without
much thought, the server suggests the Trapiche pinot noir ($25), one of
the more expensive bottles of red. It’s an affordable, if small, wine
menu and the server seems disinterested and hurried in explaining his
choice, so we shrug and agree to the pairing.

The wine is quickly brought to the table, and we soon start our meal
with the spinach tarator ($5.55) and the eggplant saute ($5.55) from
the meze menu. They are served with a basket of warm, soft flatbread.
Fresh and fluffy, the bread is delicious.

The spinach tarator is made with cream cheese instead of the more
traditional yogurt. It’s a thick, creamy dip and it’s served with fresh
cucumber and slices of sweet, tasty beets; it’s good, but it’s just not
quite what I thought it would be.

The eggplant saute is another surprise. There is no delineation on
the menu between the hot and cold meze dishes, so the word saute has me
expecting something hot. It tastes like it was just taken out of the
fridge. Regardless, the dish is quite good. The tomato sauce takes
centre stage, overpowering the light, earthy taste of the eggplant.
Even so, the eggplant is nicely cooked—soft, but not mushy—and
tastes nice and fresh.

For entrees we order the kofte kebab ($14.75), made from minced
lamb, and the halep kebab ($14.75), which pairs the lamb with chicken
and an eggplant sauce.

Both kebabs are generous portions, with light, fresh salads and
heaps of buttery rice on the side. The salads have plenty of cucumber
and tomato and make for a refreshing accompaniment to the savoury
kebabs. The lamb kebabs are ground lamb shaped into long, flat
sausage-like patties. They are moist, delicious and wonderfully
seasoned.

The chicken on the halep kebab plate is a disappointment, overcooked
and bland. Served on top of toasted pita squares, it’s accompanied by
an eggplant sauce that, fragrant and tasty, gives the chicken new
life.

The server doesn’t come to check on us and our water glasses are
never refilled. The pinot noir was not a great pairing—it’s quite
sweet, too light-bodied to stand up to the robust flavour of the lamb
kebabs. Given the very reasonable $7.50 corking fee, I will probably
opt to bring my own wine in the future. (Maybe I’ll bring my own water,
too.)

We finish off with the chocolate torte cake ($5.95) and vanilla bean
cheesecake ($5.95). They are good, but the sort of uninspired desserts
that seem like afterthoughts. I pair my cake with a Turkish coffee
($2). The coffee, though thick and strong, is unexpectedly unsweetened.
The server doesn’t make another appearance for another 20 or so minutes
before asking if I’d like another. The second one is the sweet end to
the meal I had hoped for.

I can’t say I’m totally disappointed by my meal at Cafe
Istanbul—I’m mostly perplexed. The food is ultimately pretty good,
but the service is so uneven that it’s hard to separate the experience
from the meal.

This article appears in Nov 5-11, 2009.