Posted inFood + Drink

Regicide

I’ve been looking forward to visiting the Crown Diner. Owned by two professional chefs (Harvey Eade and Moody Fadhil), their early press release trumpeted an “everything from scratch” menu. I’m excited. For a diner, the decor is upscale—definitely not going for a nostalgic feel here. A few fish-shaped light fixtures are left over from a […]

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BYOW: a year later

When Nova Scotia changed its liquor laws to allow Bring Your Own Wine (BYOW) last year, I imagined people would come out in droves—a legion of oenophiles, bottle in hand, enjoying fine dining with a wine they chose themselves. Not so fast, buddy. The impact of BYOW regulations on dining habits is virtually nil. Consumers […]

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Makin’ it on love

Every January, veterans spill the same phlegmatic phrases about that roulette wheel called the restaurant business. Winter is the ultimate cooler. A good November and December can carry you through a January slump. Winter weekends stay good, but weekdays crap out. You do your best and cut your losses. And if that fickle customer, lady […]

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Persian diversion

When I reviewed Shiraz, the little purple bunker at the south end of Hollis, I promptly fell in love with Persian food. Each time I toted my lunch out of this impossibly tiny restaurant, I wished the place was bigger and closer to home. It seems Shiraz owner Ebby Gholami was thinking along the same […]

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Offally good

[Editor’s note: This story is one of a package of three of Andy Murdoch’s articles selected for Honourable Mention in the Food Writing category of the Association of Alternative Newsweekies’ 2010 awards. See all three here.] Blame Robert Burns. He couldn’t resist cracking wise about haggis when he tried to extoll its virtues and lauded […]

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Formosa’s wonderful gifts

Between the recession and the Chinese New Year of the Ox (January 26), this is going to be a tough, hard-hat year. Yeah, yeah, so what else is new? My astrological forecast: enjoy more Dartmouth idylls at Liu’s Formosa Gift and Tea House while you put your shoulder into the oh-nine grind. Jeffrey Liu, the […]

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Brussels: beer n’ frites

Ken Greer and Boris Mirtchev, the brains behind the successful Hamachi mini-empire, have turned to Mirtchev’s Belgian roots for their latest venture. Brussels opened on Granville in September and is comprised of two long narrow rooms, side-by-side. The dining room’s beautiful wood panelling, high-backed banquettes and comfortable wooden chairs provide a warm sense of grandeur. […]

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Cocktail questing

When the temperature drops and grey snowstorms drift into our port city, mixologists around town adjust their cocktail lists in small ways to take the chill out of their bars. Take Cooper Tardivel, manager of Mosaic Social Dining Lounge on Argyle, for instance: Since winning Best Bartender in The Coast’s Best of Food poll back […]

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Courtly love

The proliferation of big box stores and the ever-increasing popularity of online shopping hasn’t affected the winter sport of mall crawling. Everything’s under one roof, sale signs are everywhere and, of course, Santa lives there. And when throngs of shoppers need sustenance to push on and gather their last bits of holiday loot, they rely […]

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Halifax’s cappuccino undergrounds

What do off-duty baristas do? With good-natured sadism, they train picky customers to pull espresso shots and make them compete against one another. That’s the premise of the 2008 non-barista championship, in the year coffee culture percolated in Halifax. At one end of barista Zane Kelsall’s kitchen is Steve-O-Reno’s first ever espresso machine, a small […]

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