Joel Rousell has a leaping pig tattooed on his forearm. It’s a classy looking pig, discreetly overlaid with a grid of the various pork cuts. The tattoo was inspired by the pig on the cover of Fergus Henderson’s cookbook, Nose to Tail Eating. Henderson is the British chef who reminded the western world to eat […]
Lindsay Cameron Wilson
Beige ambition
Sometimes when culinary customs travel west across the Atlantic, they arrive upside down and backwards. Take cheese. It’s usually served before the meal, filling us up with globs of tasty fat before a meal haseven begun. I learned this the hard way. Picture it: a handful of puffy Canadian students crowded around a table in […]
A side of cheese
Pierre Androuet’s Encyclopedia of Cheese is a useful reference guide to designing a proper cheese course at home. His recommendations include: Order of the speciesEating in order of increasing flavour. Arrange cheeses from weakest to strongest. How muchSelect an odd number – usually 3 or 5 cheeses. General crowd pleasers are a buttery brie, an […]
Gnocchi star
I strive for minimalism in the kitchen. My cupboards have just what I need. My fridge is small, which keeps excess at bay. Knives hang on a magnet on the wall. It’s all smooth, except my tool drawer. Oh, the tool drawer. I can barely open it. But all 50 items are essential in my […]
No spring chicken
A camperdown elm shoots through the concrete parking lot and stretches towards a neon sign. Its drooping branches weave around the windows of the restaurant. It occupies at least three potential parking spaces. Trucks have hit it over the years. It lost one side to a backhoe. Dutch Elm disease threatened to kill it. But […]

