Another year is winding down and with it, the chance to look back and reflect on the culinary calendar. For Metro foodies, 2006 wasn’t the most exciting year: there were no big splashy restaurants opening, no long-awaited exotic cuisines unveiled, no major milestones. But that’s not to say 2006 didn’t have its highlights (and lowlights, too).
For one chef, 2006 may be called a breakout year. The Prince George’s Ray Bear oversaw the birth of Gio, as the hotel’s restaurant became not just a guest amenity but a true destination. Bear’s cutting-edge cuisine secured him a victory in the provincial round of the Gold Medal Plates competition (in support of Olympic athletes), and early in the New Year he’ll be off to compete for the national Gold Medal title.
Never afraid to take risks and generously involving his kitchen brigade in menu development, Bear is poised to become a Canadian household name. He’s just created a few dishes for the President’s Choice grocery line, and I’ll be tracking his progress through 2007.
Fabulous French food took residence in downtown Halifax when Chateau Briand made its trek across the harbour from Dartmouth. Chef/proprietor Herve Hemlin continues to wow guests with classic dishes expertly executed. Tres magnifique!
Our knowledge of wines is growing exponentially. The Food and Wine Club routinely sold out wine dinners that featured grape growers and wine producers from all over the world as guest speakers. Wine and food pairing dinners are becoming more frequent features at restaurants, and private wine sellers continue to import previously unknown wines for eager oenophiles.
Service quality continues to decline as hospitality workers head west for greener pastures and higher wages, and others move into the physically cushier call centre positions. At least one server made her way back: Saege wisely rehired the effervescent Jessica D. after her western adventure. There’s a lesson to be learned here—smart employers don’t turn good employees away. Not that long ago, servers were easy to find and replace, but that’s not the case anymore. If a restaurant has bad service (and many do), I place the blame squarely on the management.
It doesn’t take much to recruit and retain good people. First, set clear expectations and stick to them. If you have an underperformer, be prepared to let the person go. Guests are far more likely to be understanding if you’re understaffed than if your servers are rude or incompetent. Second, provide training. Nothing is more frustrating for your guests or your employees than to be pitched into the fray with no real understanding of the menu, wine list and the mechanics of your operation. Third, treat your employees well. Show your appreciation for their hard work and don’t think it can’t be done just because you run a small operation. Tammy Fredericks of Fredie’s Fantastic Fishhouse told me that for every hour her seasonal employees work, she sets aside one dollar of her own money and pays that to them in a bonus at the end of the season. Fredericks is quick to credit staff as being a major part of her success. Service at Fredie’s is up there with the best levels across Metro, and I’m sure if a seasonal take-out can do this, any restaurant can.
Get staff buy-in. Include them in decisions, ask for input, make them feel they’re part of the team. Appeal to their bottom line—in a tip-driven business, your success is their success and will be reflected in their nightly take.
Tourism numbers were down in 2006. Some of the contributing factors may have been out of local restaurateurs’ control, but why not focus on courting the locals? Let’s work to make 2007 the year of gracious service.
A year of Liz Feltham reviews, yours for the browsing, online at: www.foodcritic.ca
This article appears in Dec 28, 2006 – Jan 3, 2007.