The lower end of Portland Street seems to be enjoying a renaissance of sorts, with the building of executive-style townhouses nearby, and a general clean-up of an area once dominated by strip bars. It’s a sunny day, and as I walk down the wide brick sidewalk I can glimpse the sun glinting off the blue water of the harbour.
Starr’s is a small bakery at the end of a row of storefronts that includes a flower shop and pizza place. Outside there’s a small roped-off patio, which is an absolute necessity because inside the cafe it’s sweltering hot (it is, after all, a bakery first, cafe second).
The interior might be described as low-key and eclectic, but that would be generous. It’s messy, with tables and chairs jammed everywhere, racks with baked goods stuck about haphazardly, and a floor badly in need of refinishing or a paint job. It’s a little off- putting because it’s a clean place that comes across as dirty because of the disarray, which doesn’t make a good first impression.
The other thing I find distasteful is the way the counterperson is dressed. I realize it’s very hot, and maybe I’m just getting old, but I don’t care to see the armpits and ass cheeks of the person who is serving my food. At least she’s friendly and courteous—in fact, all of the staff I encountered there were very welcoming and chatty. Their friendliness creates a homey atmosphere that almost overcomes the cafe’s messy appearances.
Starr’s serves light lunches of paninis, soups and salads between 11am and 2pm. Everything is made there, including (as one would expect) the bread for the sandwiches. I have the soup of the day ($3.25), a nice butternut squash. It could use a little more seasoning, but it’s pretty good and very filling—so much so that I have to take my panini ($5.95) home to finish. The sandwich is large (you have to ask for the bread to be grilled, which is a little odd, as panini are generally assumed to be served hot), with thick slices of yummy bread encasing a lot of filling—in this case sliced turkey and cheese. I’ve ordered tea (they have several kinds of loose tea available) and I like that it comes in a little pot, so you can have a couple of cups. I drop in several times to sample the baked goods.
The cakes ($3.47/ slice) are very homey, nothing too fancy or pastry shop-like. Blueberry streusel coffee cake is delicious and moist with a subtle cinnamon flavour, and not too sweet, perfect for a midmorning snack. There’s a white cake called “Coconut Dream,” with a soft meringue icing; the cake is a little dry but the icing makes up for that. The sticky buns are really good, especially first thing in the morning, as are the tea biscuits. The biscotti looks promising, orange and chocolate (a classic flavour combo), but is very soggy. Typically, biscotti is twice-baked to achieve a very dry, almost hard texture, as it’s designed to be dipped in coffee. This biscotti is crumbly and can’t be dipped because it falls apart. It tastes great, though.
After trying a wide array of the offerings at Starr’s, I conclude that the old-fashioned baked goods like the tea biscuits, sticky buns and coffee cakes are what they do best. The staff is friendly, and if you can overlook the initial appearance, Starr’s doesn’t fare badly. Baked goodness combined with a great sandwich, good soup and wide selection of coffees and teas make Starr’s a good spot to stop for lunch or a sweet treat.
Starr’s Bakery & Cafe 55 Portland Street 461-4535Mon-Fri 7am-5pm Sat 9am-3pm Sun closed
How sweet it is. Find more of Liz Feltham online at www.foodcritic.ca
This article appears in Aug 24-30, 2006.
After reading this article I feel the need to comment on Starr’s Cafe’ and my personal experience. I am a business owner in the downtown Dartmouth area as well and I frequent the Cafe’ everyday faithfully! I keep going back based on the qaulity of food and A1 friendly personal service…never seeing “ass cheeks”. Armpits tend to extend from the arm which is a natural thing. I have never noticed the armpits to be an issue…they are not hairy or dirty. The counter staff are dressed for summer and always look clean and presentable. I have not once found a hair, etc. in any of my food. If I want pressed shirts and starched collars I would go to a finer restaurant to dine…NOT a cafe’! As for sweltering hot inside, they have an AC unit which in most days I find to be quite chilly but never sweltering hot. As many times I visit I have not once heard of a complaint about it having crowded seating, messy floors or in disarray! The interior suits the place just fine, lets face it..you are in there for coffee and a light lunch most imes a grab ‘n go( majority are downtown business people on quick breaks.) It is not intended to be plastered on the front page of HOME & GARDEN. The floor was painted not too long ago. It being in need of a paint job is possibly due to the fact that the traffic in and out is non-stop. Keep in mind this new operation is only a year old and is constantly evolving and changing things. Being a repeat customer I have seen this over the year. The customer is always nbumber one here and if there is something you would like to see offered the owner will gladly do her best to satisfy you. I have had custom specialty birthday cakes made on request which are fabulous!! So to conclude, if you are looking for a cute place to stop for a breather on your way up from the ferry terminal, Starr’s is along the way. I feel Starr’s is a perfect fit for the downtown business sector and I have heard nothing but good reviews from others. come see for yourself;)
Sorry, I have to completely disagree with Ms. Feltham’s review. Starr’s is one of the best bakeries in Metro and I’ve never seen armpits and asses sticking out there. Maybe she should stick to reviewing the food.
This Starr is Rising
This Starr is RisingIt is good to see Dartmouth establishments reviewed in The Coast. I would like to add to the mildly postive review that was published: Since the demise of The Donut Machine, Starr’s is the ONLY decent coffee and baked goods outlet in Dartmouth. (If someone knows of another one, please say so!) They really know how to make their espresso drinks and their baked goods are excellent. By the way, they also have gluten-free treats, which could have been mentioned. keep up the good work!
This Starr is RisingIt is good to see Dartmouth establishments reviewed in The Coast. I would like to add to the mildly postive review that was published: Since the demise of The Donut Machine, Starr’s is the ONLY decent coffee and baked goods outlet in Dartmouth. (If someone knows of another one, please say so!) They really know how to make their espresso drinks and their baked goods are excellent. By the way, they also have gluten-free treats, which could have been mentioned. keep up the good work!
A rude review and the comment about “asscheeks” is an out and out fabrication. Does hurting a wonderful cafe’s possible success make Lizzy feel better?
Be thankful it wasn’t Liz’s armpit or ass cheek! Stick to the grub please
Be thankful it wasn’t Liz’s armpit or ass cheek! Stick to the grub please
I HAVE to agree with STARR Gazer’s comments on Liz’s mean-spirited review. From the get-go the article is nasty and only at the end concludes “if you can overlook the appearance…Starr’s is a good spot to stop for lunch or a treat”. What kind of a backhanded compliment is that? Does she have a personal Vendetta against the girls? She must be jealous then, since they have something so good going on. Starr’s has the best coffee in Dartmouth, maybe HRM, and by far the friendliest, most dedicated staff, who will bend over backwards (without showing their ass cheeks) to accomodate their customers. What a treat, they are so human and community-minded! The staff are friendly and fun, and they make the best cookies (mmmmm El Torpedos), paninis, and soup on the planet. They remember which coffee you like, make special treats for people with allergies, and geniuinely make you feel welcome. I’ll take that over a stark, “neat and tidy” Tim Horton’s anyday, thank you very much. And judging by how busy Starr’s is, much of downtown Dartmouth feels the same way. Liz, do you really think it is necessary to crap on a fabulous locally-owned bakery started and run by young, enthusiastic, spirited people who have a vision for the community? YOU SUCK!!! STARR’S RULES!!!
while I am glad to see that there are more sites getting noticed in the dartmouth area and could even stand to see some more out of the way destinations in review, however this is not my reason for commenting. This comment is more directed to the intitial comments about the article, I found them to be very defensive and have to wonder if the person writting it was in fact the owner of said cafe and not really a “customer” at all. A definite plug for the cafe…I find more and more that all staff in these independently owned cafe’s are completely uniform challenged, and i think if a person is left with an impression of what the staff is wearing and not of the food/beverage and service then this is something owner’s may want to take a second look at. I am far from old and totally understand working in a uncomfortably hot atmosphere … this is something that an owner should rectify for an employee. I think that if something is going to affect their image they may want to consider a cool uniform or a standard of clothing that does not distract a customer attention from the experience and allows the staff to perform their job in a happy and professional atmostphere. you may not have found a hair and while “Armpits tend to extend from the arm which is a natural thing” , so is sweat, urine, toe jam, yeast infections, and mucus – i do not want to be thinking about this or ever have the possible inclination that i am eating it.I normally never respond to things however I had some time on my hands and felt like saying something…as for the floors and the table and chair arrangements i think as longs as it is comfortable, clean and others are still going there, screw it until the business can get a little more revenue to sink back into it. i hope for the great success of this establishment, there can never be too many good cafes.
just for the record – I AM NOT “LIZZY”. i had to chuckle that just because someone of another opinion from the other’s post was considered to be her, i guess my writting technique is getting better …cool! my point when i wrote that snibit was i think standards of the service industry may have lowered in the way of outfitts.as i said before – I am not old, and i have been in the service industry for a few years and just think the focus should be on what’s important- Food -Drinks- and Service, this of course is with some exceptions- IE cocktail bars may want to make people drool so they can drink some more/tip more- I however do not think a cafe is a place for people who are just wanting a “cup of joe” or a croissant need to witness someone’s “g” string because of their low riding short shorts or the new tatoo that they are sporting on their inner thigh is so high up that the “pubes” were exposed!!yes this is what i have actually seen at more then one cafe!if someone is commenting about “ass chicks or armpits- then it is up to the owner to look into a more appropriate attire.anyway enough said… people are going to do what ever they want where ever, just wanted to let you know it was Liz Feltham’s comment.I really do hope the cafe is successful
To speak negatively about Stars Cafe would be similar to insulting the high school class president. You know the person I’m talking about, the one who didn’t wear designer clothing and never pretended to be someone they weren’t simply to be considered a cool kid. Often this class president got along well with everyone anyway simlpy based on character. Stars Cafe has Character and a lot of it (certainly more than this liz feltham). Here’s my reviewIt’s apparent from the moment you set foot in the cafe that the business was built from the heart and not from the wallet. It’s eloquence is subtle and mishapen, but eloquent nontheless. Chairs and tables are strewn about the small dining area lacking perfect symetry, but achieving the desired look of personal touch. During many of my visits to Stars I’ve had the privaledge of meeting Chantelle (the owner) or Shawny as many of the staff and loyal customers have come to call her. A delightful woman who’s always ready to lend a hand or share a laugh. It almost seems inappropriate to call her or the counter girls (Megan and Kendra/Kenny) servers, becuase the second you walk in the door, you are not a customer but a friend. This is the way most people would enjoy being treated but perhaps after years of faceless customer service from other locations, having that extra caring touch might come as a surprise, a very welcome surprise however.Now onto the food, I’ve had soups of all types, most thick and creamy enough to be considered stu’s all of which have been delicious and stuffing. The panini sandwiches (I’ve had a dozen ham and cheese) are incredible for a quick lunch and ideal to take home. The coffee is unique each day as they rotate through what seems like an endless list of exotic flavours such as pumpkin and blue mountain as well as your typical columbian and dark roast. Everything i’ve mentioned so far has been nothing but a prelude to their phoenominal desert finales. The glass display case houses on average a dozen or so eloquent pastries, cakes, cookies, and creations. My favorite so far has been the one dubbed “campfires” consisting of peanuts, chocolate, marshmallows and something that could only be described ase graham cracker toothpicks. Other deseets include fruit topping cheesecakes, fruit and yogurts, homemade monster size oreos, the best oatcakes in town, merangues and squares so big it could take two people to finish them.Keep in mind i’m an average customer and didn’t jot any notes down or study decor for a year at some school. I’m just an average person, one who enjoys great food and genuine people who sincerely enhance my dining experiance. Star’s in an excellence source of both! And for those of you who are allergic to glutton, there’s ussually at least one glutten free treat a day, stop by and check it out! P.S. notice i didn’t mention any armpits or ass cheecks… it’s because in ver 50 visits, I haven’t seen or been offended by either. Girls keep up the great work!
To speak negatively about Stars Cafe would be similar to insulting the high school class president. You know the person I’m talking about, the one who didn’t wear designer clothing and never pretended to be someone they weren’t simply to be considered a cool kid. Often this class president got along well with everyone anyway simlpy based on character. Stars Cafe has Character and a lot of it (certainly more than this liz feltham). Here’s my reviewIt’s apparent from the moment you set foot in the cafe that the business was built from the heart and not from the wallet. It’s eloquence is subtle and mishapen, but eloquent nontheless. Chairs and tables are strewn about the small dining area lacking perfect symetry, but achieving the desired look of personal touch. During many of my visits to Stars I’ve had the privaledge of meeting Chantelle (the owner) or Shawny as many of the staff and loyal customers have come to call her. A delightful woman who’s always ready to lend a hand or share a laugh. It almost seems inappropriate to call her or the counter girls (Megan and Kendra/Kenny) servers, becuase the second you walk in the door, you are not a customer but a friend. This is the way most people would enjoy being treated but perhaps after years of faceless customer service from other locations, having that extra caring touch might come as a surprise, a very welcome surprise however.Now onto the food, I’ve had soups of all types, most thick and creamy enough to be considered stu’s all of which have been delicious and stuffing. The panini sandwiches (I’ve had a dozen ham and cheese) are incredible for a quick lunch and ideal to take home. The coffee is unique each day as they rotate through what seems like an endless list of exotic flavours such as pumpkin and blue mountain as well as your typical columbian and dark roast. Everything i’ve mentioned so far has been nothing but a prelude to their phoenominal desert finales. The glass display case houses on average a dozen or so eloquent pastries, cakes, cookies, and creations. My favorite so far has been the one dubbed “campfires” consisting of peanuts, chocolate, marshmallows and something that could only be described ase graham cracker toothpicks. Other deseets include fruit topping cheesecakes, fruit and yogurts, homemade monster size oreos, the best oatcakes in town, merangues and squares so big it could take two people to finish them.Keep in mind i’m an average customer and didn’t jot any notes down or study decor for a year at some school. I’m just an average person, one who enjoys great food and genuine people who sincerely enhance my dining experiance. Star’s in an excellence source of both! And for those of you who are allergic to glutton, there’s ussually at least one glutten free treat a day, stop by and check it out! P.S. notice i didn’t mention any armpits or ass cheecks… it’s because in ver 50 visits, I haven’t seen or been offended by either. Girls keep up the great work!