Lobster Shack
Although lacking the tourist cachet of the South Shore, the Eastern Shore has a charm all its own. A trip along the picturesque Marine Drive leads past Upper Chezzetcook, past Musquodoboit and just past Head of Jeddore, to the Salmon River, and there is the hungry traveller’s destination, the Lobster Shack Restaurant. The dining room is lively and colourful—a showcase for local folk art—and the menu is seafood-centric. Mussels ($9) have an unusual presentation: Dubbed “muscargots” on the menu, they are prepared as if they were snails, in garlic butter with too much melted cheese. For main courses, we have a lobster crepe ($17) and surf and turf ($24). The crepe is the star of the evening, toothsome and nutty flavoured, and the sauce is a delicate herbed cream. The surf and turf, with striploin steak and lobster tail, is almost as good. (Lobster Shack Restaurant at the Salmon River House Inn, 1-800-565-3353, full review here)
Mezza
This new Lebanese restaurant on Quinpool is beautiful. From the incredible carved ceiling, to the frosted doors, down to the intricate tile in the entrance, everything here says attention to detail and class. True to Mezza’s name, the menu is composed of mezza—small plates made for sharing, ideal for sampling many things at a meal instead of committing to one entree. Our mezza platter for two ($25) arrives in short order. First, a basket of warmed pita triangles appears, followed by the rest of our food. Among several items on the plate, the hommus and baba ghanouj are perhaps Lebanon’s most famous spreads, and these versions are outstanding, and the two classic salads (fatouch and taboul) are hits as well. My sister falls in love with the foul mudammas ($6), a moist combination of fava beans with garlic, lemon and a hint of mint, and I have to agree it’s spectacular. (Mezza Mediterranean, 6386 Quinpool Road, 444-3914, full review here)
Stönehäven
After the legendary La Cave shut its doors on its subterranean Blowers Street location, two other restaurants opened there—and soon closed—in quick succession. But the third attempt is proving the charm. Although there’s a long wait for the main courses, the restaurant is fairly busy and when the entrees do arrive, everything is fresh and hot and the wait is quickly forgotten. The Scallops Francaise ($19.50) is an overly rich serving of sauted scallops with a white wine cream sauce, covered with cheese. Lamb chops ($24.50) are thick and juicy, cooked as ordered, and charred just right. I would be happy to wander the streets with these chops, licking away in “lambsicle” fashion, to make the experience last as long as I could. For dessert, La Cave cheesecakes are the signature offering, and mango and triple chocolate slices ($7 each) are light, moist and fantastic. (Stönehäven Dining Experience, 5244 Blowers, 423-5565, full review here)
Innlet Cafe
The Innlet boasts the best view in Mahone Bay: that iconic scene of the three churches. The inside of the cafe is simple, with wood-beam ceilings, a fireplace and walls featuring works by local artists. After appetizers including delicious mushroom caps ($4.25), our main courses are “heavenly chicken” ($14.35), lamb goulash ($11.60) and a seafood platter ($16.75). The chicken is breast meat braised in a brown sauce with plenty of wine, too salty for my taste but served with a fine baked stuffed potato. The goulash is the best use of lamb I’ve tasted in a long time. Not overly thick but full of tender, braised meat, it’s fabulous. And the seafood platter —sauteed shrimp, scallops, haddock, salmon and mussels—represents Nova Scotia’s ocean bounty, simple and well executed. And luckily we’ve saved room for the phenomenally good homemade apple strudel ($4.85). (Innlet Cafe, 249 Edgewater Street, Mahone Bay, 902-624-6363, full review here)
Mosaic
A tapas and wine bar has been on my restaurant wish-list for a long time now, so I watched the opening of Mosaic with interest. When I visit, I’m greeted warmly and seated in the newly renovated expanded section. The menu lists about 20 “sharing” plates—featuring small portions of one or two items that can be nibbled on and passed around —and displays a remarkably global cuisine. Delightful yellowfin tuna ($12) is chopped and seasoned, mixed with fresh herbs and served with sesame crackers. The Dubliner cheddar and charred-tomato pie ($9) is a miniature version of a rustic dish that retains all of its flavour in this form. I am also excited by the arrival of pomme frites ($6), shoestring potatoes fried, salted and served with a spectacular chipotle ketchup. With its fabulous atmosphere, accessible wine list and excellent cuisine, Mosaic makes my wish come true. (Mosaic Social Dining Lounge, 1584 Argyle, 405-4700, full review here)
Dude’s Food
About 4km down the road from Lawrencetown Beach is a hand-painted sign advertising Happy Dudes’ Surf Shop. Take the left and you’ll reach not only the surf store, but also Dude’s Food, a takeout operating out of an old school bus. The menu runs the gamut from breakfast to wraps to plenty of vegetarian options, including burgers and hot dogs. We pick fish and chips (two pieces, $7) and chicken fingers ($5)—prices include HST, so this is cheap food. The chicken fingers, a standard pre-frozen product, are serviceable but unremarkable. The fish, though, is like a little piece of deep-fried heaven. And both the fingers and fish come with divine handcut fries. Dude knows chips. (Dude’s Food, 4891 Highway 207, Three Fathom Harbour, full review here)
This article appears in Aug 23-29, 2007.