Hali Deli is not Schwartz’s Deli.
Whew, that was a real load off! Take a deep breath. Sit down if you need to. It’s going to be alright. Because while Hali Deli is not Schwartz’s Deli, it is still a pretty darn good deli.
Retro half-globe pendant lights loom above, hanging from a tin-tiled ceiling, giving the pretty diner a bright glow. Wood- grain walls have mustard yellow accents, and an old-fashioned bar runs the length of the room. Chalkboards list desserts and drinks, like old world coffee cake, egg creams and cold glasses of milk.
The dining room is cozy, with a small scattering of tables edging up against one another and big bay windows that fog up as warm, winter conversations hit the cold glass.
It’s hard not to set your expectations a little high when a deli or lunch counter opens. Scenes from When Harry Met Sally and The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz might run through your mind. But, in a moment of Woody Allen-style kvetching, someone is also bound to say “well, it’s not gonna be a Schwartz’s, so, you know, why bother?” After all, nobody is harder to please than people who want to be pleased.
The first time I went to Hali Deli, I got the hot dog ($8.99): a plump all-beef dog on a fluffy bun, piled high with sauerkraut, caramelized onions, melted Swiss cheese, and a heap of delightfully tart pepper relish. I opted for a knish and tsimmus on the side, the latter being a pile of sweet, buttery carrots that aren’t far off from a side my mother makes for holiday dinners. It was a very homey plate.
I decide to go back with a few friends. This time I get the smoked meat sandwich ($10.99), Sarah orders the chicken matza ball soup ($5.69) and the grilled cheese deluxe ($9.99) and Ryan orders the hot brisket sandwich ($11.99).
The matza ball soup is delicious. It’s light, with a clear, flavourful broth and a few vegetables. The ball—a big, tender, cracker-like dumpling made of matzo meal—has great texture and good seasoning. It’s a simple, delicious soup.
The hot brisket sandwich is great, with eggy challah and tender brisket complemented by savoury onion gravy. Once again, it’s hearty and homey. The grilled cheese, made heavy with the addition of smoked meat and tomato, is also filling and good.
The sandwich is a paradox of size: it is, at once, huge and tiny. Small slices of rye bread, maybe twice the size and thickness of a saltine cracker, hold Jenga blocks of deeply pink meat. It is impossible to hold and bite without the whole thing falling apart, so I remove some of the steamed brisket and, after adding some mustard, bite in. It’s not bad. It would improve with meat that has a little bit more fat on it—they seem to favour leaner cuts.
It is disappointing that the smoked meat at Hali Deli is shipped in from Lester’s—I’d personally prefer the authenticity of a deli selling is own smoked meat more than I do the exactness of an ingredient originating in the 514 area code. It’s hard to get too bent out of shape, though. The brisket is brined for days, marinated even further, smoked, then steamed.
The sandwich halves on my plate teeter against a pile of hand-cut fries that round out the plate with coleslaw and a half sour. The fries are not good. They are too soft, almost soggy. I do like the crisp, light coleslaw and the mild half-sour, though I’d love the option for some kosher dill pickles.
It’s not Schwartz’s Deli. But it’ll do.
This article appears in Feb 14-20, 2013.
Nice review Melissa!
I went for breakfast not too long ago and was blown away by the friendliness of the staff, even though it was a packed house. Our food was awesome! Special shout out to the challah and the latkes, easily the best I’ve had in the city.
This may be a trivial detail, but it’s exceptionally important to me. Coffee refills! Hali Deli wins hands down. Cup never empty, coffee never cold! Again, this was in a packed house. I feel this is an excellent indication of their attentiveness and concern for their patrons.
Schwartz’s is excellent…and about 17 hours away. My experience with Schwartz’s have all been positive save for feeling very rushed, largely due to it’s popularity. Setting, atmosphere, and time to consume each play a large part in defining my experience at a restaurant. I’d argue Hali Deli one ups Schwartz’s in this regard.
Without a doubt, I’ll be returning and bringing friends as long as they continue to provide warmth and great eats!
I totally agree with this review. The fries are not good, and it would be so much better if they smoked the meat in-house. The texture of the meat is nothing like Shwartz’s. But it still is a good restaurant, and I’ll go back.
Anything would be better than Katz’ Deli– except for the enjoyable company of a great couple from Queens who shared our table, it was a wasted venture. Shoulda tried Carnegie Deli instead.
Gave the Hali Deli some time to settle in!
Should have known the bread was going to be dry and tasteless, the smoked meat tough and lacking depth.
Fries cooked in old oil, gave them a dark brown finish.
Might go back to try some “deli” items but I am in no rush.
Try the steamed smoked meat sandwich at Kel’s Deli in Dartmouth, I know God forbid you all coming to Dartmouth, but their sandwiches are great! And reasonably priced. Give it a try, you’ll like it and the service is excellent, I take my fussy 11 year old and he eats every bit, and there’s no Happy Meal or playground. The sausages and deli meats are really good too.
$8.99 for a hotdog?! Better be some pretty gourmet lips and assholes, prices around this city are insane.
This place is expensive and deceptive, I guess I should have expected that though. The first red flag came when the waiter told me they are not licensed despite their Sleeman’s sign board out on the sidewalk. Water it was. The menu is full of painfully plain food items, none of it really stood out to me, and I was pretty hungry. I ended up ordering a “Reuben” and fries. It turned out to not even be a reuben, it was on white bread, there was no mustard on it, and the “smoked meat” was just plain old ham, sliced way too thick, and piled way too high. I had to take half of it out to eat the sandwich properly. The fries looked to be hand cut, but they were so smothered in grease and salt I couldn’t even eat them. Then I ordered the homemade strawberry shortcake for dessert. What a gyp that was. It turned out to actually be an old scone that must have been sitting around since breakfast, cut in half, with a blob of whip cream one half, and TWO stawberries on it. Yes 2 strawberrys, on the whole plate. You think these guys would be trying break stereotypes not enforce them. When the bill came I was taken a but by surprise. It cost a lot of money to eat there, even more so when I consider the low quality of food served. I have had a good meal, and couple of drinks to go with for that price. I’d never eat here again.
man i want to like this place. hasn’t happened yet. perhaps unfair to compare it to an institution like Schwartz’s, but halideli doesn’t seem to be even trying. if you’re selling the same sisco product offered by most prisons and universities in the country, do something interesting with it. or cut a few bucks off the extremely high price. you’re shooting for good simple food. get your fries right.
Well after 2 visits I turned all my friends off this terrible spot.
1st visit easy I looked at the menu online and knew it was corn beef hash. Yikes I couldn’t believe what I received. Corn beef, potatoes and black specs. The onion was literally black as coal, burnt to a crisp. I’m a smoke meat junky I left without trying the sandwich. Saw a couple tables with it had a pretty good idea what I would have gotten.
Here is where I draw the line my next visit I ordered matza soup. I don’t expect it made with the love of a “Jewish grade mother”. I expect hot, chicken flavoured broth, a tasty light matza ball and I love fresh perfectly cooked carrots in mine. Luke warm, dish detergent flavoured broth and a heavy as lead ball that wasn’t worth a second bite.
Here’s the thing that disappointed me the most. In both cases I asked for the bill in 3-5 minutes barely touching the food. Any competent server takes 1 look at the meals they know I’m not happy. I have a little trick when I’m not coming back. The tip is visible when they bring the bill. Why ask if it was good when as a server your getting paid? Poorly trained staff that do not care about the customer IMHO.
Oh as for the prices way to high with little of the food meeting even a good standard. As for Swartz great place for sure. I did the pilgrimage 30 years ago to Katz in NYC. The pastrami and corn beef to die for. It’s still there you if you want a real deli where they smoke their own meats, find an excuse to visit NYC.
Hali is no Deli!