Long before Mystic opened its doors beneath the Rise Again Stairs in Halifax’s Queen’s Marque District there was an air of mystique about the restaurant that would occupy this now iconic symbol of Halifax’s waterfront. Whispers of Michelin star aspirations were already wafting through the local hospitality community. Could Halifax one day be home to one of the 3,500 restaurants worldwide that have earned a coveted Michelin star?
From a practical standpoint, it’s unlikely—at least for now. Regardless of how good Mystic, Tribute, Water Polo, or any other fine-dining establishment in Halifax may be, none are likely to earn a star from the historic Michelin Guide any time soon. The venerable French guide made by the tire company to promote road trips only began recognizing Canadian restaurants in 2022, and to date, just 26 establishments—located exclusively in Vancouver or Ontario—have received the globally recognized accolade. Montreal and Calgary are widely considered next in line for review.
Despite this, general manager Andrew Flynn remains optimistic. “If a Michelin judge were ever to come, we would be going for a star. We consider that to be our standard for food, service and hospitality.”
The restaurant itself features the clean lines and floor-to-ceiling windows characteristic of celebrated Nova Scotian architectural firm MacKay-Lyons Sweetapple. While the exterior impresses with its restrained grandeur, the interior leans welcomingly to minimalist. Guests are welcomed into a space framed by shelves of preserved local ingredients—many foraged—a deliberate nod to the kitchen’s commitment to sustainability and regional sourcing. Flynn refers to it as “a historic nod to grandma’s pantry.”
The focal point of the space is its open kitchen, complemented by bar—or as the restaurant prefers to say, galley—seating, referencing its harbourside setting and the subtly integrated hull-shaped ceiling above. While MacKay-Lyons Sweetapple handled the structural design, the interior is quietly elegant, dressed in seaside-inspired tones of driftwood browns and light moss green booths and couches, accented with darker metallic elements. Local ceramicist Heather Pitts completes the tablescapes with raw, natural dinnerware—an earthy, refined departure from the crisp white linen and porcelain standard of many Michelin-style restaurants.
Dining at Mystic, however, won’t be for everyone. The menu is organized into tasting experiences, including two five-course options—Fauna and Biota—and an eight-course Discovery menu, available to guests seated at the galley. A newer, shorter cocktail pairing menu offers two bespoke cocktails matched with two small dishes, designed, says Flynn, to offer regulars a more casual way to enjoy the restaurant without committing to a lengthy tasting each time.
During a recent visit, my table of four ordered both the Fauna and Biota menus. To their credit, the kitchen accommodated a modest amount of mixing and matching to suit our dietary preferences.
I’ve eaten at several Michelin-starred restaurants over the years, but walking into them often brings a wave of anxiety about formality. It’s ironic, given my career in food and wine, but my inner Maritimer feels far more at ease in a T-shirt and jeans than in a suit and tie. Thankfully, Mystic delivers a refreshingly Maritime approach to ultra-fine dining. Staff are knowledgeable yet warm. While they may not exhibit the polish of top-tier servers in Paris or New York, the charm feels perfectly suited to upscale Atlantic Canada. I’ll take charm over polish any day of the week.
New Brunswick-born, Toronto-trained sommelier Sam Melanson may be the unsung star of the floor. He glides between tables with finesse, equally adept at engaging non-wine drinkers as he is discussing rare bottles with oenophiles. The wine list, while constrained by the limits of availability in Nova Scotia, offers respectable depth. Those seeking verticals of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne or Barolo might find it limited. However, we began with a wondrous glass of 2014 Lightfoot & Wolfville Small Lots Late Disgorged Blanc de Blancs that was voluminous but also precise, followed by a flinty, smoky Anselmo Mendes Magma—a Verdelho-based white from the Azores—and finished with an earthy, small-production Chianti Classico that paired seamlessly with the mains.
As for the food, the culinary team is helmed by chef Malcolm Campbell, whose resume includes stints at Gordon Ramsay’s Hospital Road, the Bingham Hotel, Lyon’s Auberge de l’Île Barbe, and Toronto’s Canoe and Auberge du Pommier, before a relocation to Cape Breton’s Cabot Links. Campbell’s dishes pay elegant tribute to regional ingredients. Standouts included a Rockefeller-style oyster served pre-meal, a first course highlighting the always sublime Acadian Sturgeon, and pheasant main course accompanied with pickled foraged mushrooms. The only letdowns were a slightly overcooked monkfish and a lobster ravioli that, while flavourful and visually striking, lacked a bit of lobster intensity.
The bill—two tasting menus and two bottles of wine shared among four guests—came to approximately $300 per person before tax and tip. While certainly not an everyday splurge, Mystic is well worth an annual special-occasion visit, as it delivers an elevated experience without losing sight of its Maritime origins.
To make a reservation or explore the menu at Mystic HERE.
This article appears in Apr 1-30, 2025.