When it comes to fish and chips, there’s golden-brown deliciousness, and there’s golden-brown delicious- ness. Then there’s Fries & Co. The aroma alone lets you know you’re in for a treat—and the tasting’s only better. Smothered in ketchup, drowning in malt vinegar, sprinkled in salt. Re- ally, it doesn’t matter how you decorate this tiny take-out’s handcut French fries, you love them with battered fish. No word on how former governor general Adrienne Clarkson, a Fries & Co. fan, enjoys hers.